Quick and easy grinding
Neatly holds ground pepper
A little expensive
Might be large for small hands
Only holds 2 tablespoons of pepper
Peugeot Olivier Roellinger Manual Pepper Mill with Handle
We purchased the Peugeot Olivier Roellinger Pepper Mill so our reviewer could put it to the test in her kitchen. Keep reading for our full product review.
Everyone needs a pepper mill—and I admit I might already have a few for different types of pepper. But I was more than willing to test the Peugeot Olivier Roellinger Pepper Mill to see why it was different. With a stock of different peppercorns on hand, I was ready to test its capabilities on some steak, chicken, and all of that jazz.
Read on for my review of this high-end pepper mill.
Reminiscent of old-fashioned grinders, this upscale pepper grinder adds a lovely decorative touch to the kitchen, the dining room, or the buffet. The shiny stainless steek handle and domed top are a contrast to the dark wood.
A small raised knob on the edge dome makes it simple to open the dome to add more pepper, or perhaps to dump remaining pepper out, if there’s a need to change the type of peppercorns being ground. That space can hold about 2 tablespoons of peppercorns, depending on how they’re poured and filled into the dome. While I managed to get 2 tablespoons into the space, 1 tablespoon is a little easier to manage. That’s not as much as larger grinders, but it makes it easy to use this grinder for a variety of different peppers, adding just a little at a time and grinding only what’s needed.
The finest grind was impressively fine, practically a powder.
The ground pepper falls into a little drawer that’s kind of adorable. The drawer is actually a solid piece of wood with a shallow rounded hollow cut into it to hold the pepper. That space holds 1 tablespoon of pepper, which is more than enough for most recipes, but it might be hard to fill it perfectly to the brim without a lot of shaking to get it level.
When there’s a need for a lot of ground pepper, this grinder is easier on the wrists than a typical grinder. To operate this, all I had to do was rotate the top handle. On occasion, I could feel a peppercorn getting a little stuck in the grinding gears, but it wasn’t a problem—the grinder had no problem grabbing and grinding the peppercorns with a little more pressure, or if I backed up and then continued turning forward. Turning the handle wasn’t strenuous, and it ground the pepper quickly, accumulating in the little drawer.
The one small issue is that in order to operate the grinder for a good seasoning, one hand has to hold the base of the grinder. While I had no issues with it, someone with very small hands might have a little trouble grasping the base. If kids are helping in the kitchen, it’s likely an adult would need to hold the base while the little helper does the grinding.
Once grinding is done, it’s easy to remove the drawer and sprinkle, pour, or measure the pepper. On the other hand, the drawer isn’t completely loose—it has metal brackets on the side that hold it snug so it won’t fall out if the grinder is tipped.
I accidentally found out that there’s another way to dispense the pepper. With the drawer removed, pepper simply comes out of the bottom. While that defeats the purpose of the drawer, it could be used to dispense pepper directly onto salads or to let the pepper fall onto a cutting board.
The finest grind was impressively fine, practically a powder. The coarsest grind wasn’t as coarse as cracked pepper from a mortar and pestle, but it was coarse enough for folks who like to see coarsely ground pepper on the salad or on a steak.
Cleaning: Easy breezy
Since this is made mostly from wood, the body of the grinder should be wiped clean with a damp cloth without getting it too wet. The stainless steel parts can be wiped with the same damp cloth.
Internally, there should be nothing that needs cleaning, since this is just used for pepper.
Operation: Not obvious, but also easy
Unlike other grinders that have dot or other indicators of the grind settings, this one doesn’t give you any clue what size grind is set until you test it. In fact, before I read the manual, I wondered if this grinder actually had settings. It wasn’t immediately obvious how I was supposed to adjust it finer or coarser. After a quick browse of the manual, though, it became obvious, and it’s actually pretty simple.
Once grinding is done, it’s simple to remove the drawer and sprinkle, pour, or measure the pepper.
The size is set based on the position of a small flat metal disk that travels up and down the threads on the central spindle that holds the handle. A spring-loaded bent piece of metal fits into cutouts on the metal disk. To change the settings, the bent metal is pulled out and the metal disk is screwed up or down the spindle to set the grind coarser or finer. There’s a whole lot of travel up and down that spindle, so this offers a lot of different grind sizes for cooks who take their pepper seriously.
Price: Expensive but not crazy
This pepper mill is in the middle-high price range at over $50. There are plenty of pepper mills that are inexpensive enough to be considered disposable, but there are also many that cost more than this one. Sure, it’s a little expensive, but it works well and the look is unique.
Peugeot Olivier Roellinger Pepper Mill vs. Unicorn Mills 9-Inch Magnum Plus Pepper Mill
Among pepper mills, Unicorn is another brand with a good reputation, and the Unicorn Mills 9-inch Magnum Plus Pepper Mill is a fine example of their offerings. While its price is close to the Peugeot I tested and it’s a quality product, the looks couldn’t be more different. While the Peugeot is short, squat, square, made from wood, and a little bit old fashioned looking, the Unicorn is tall, cylindrical, plastic, and ultra-modern. Either will likely do a good job grinding pepper, but I personally like the style of the Peugeot better, because of its uniqueness.
It makes a statement.
While this is certainly more expensive, the Peugeot Olivier Roellinger Pepper Mill comes from a reputable company, does an excellent job grinding, and is attractive without dramatics. This one deserves the good peppercorns.
- Product Name Olivier Roellinger Manual Pepper Mill with Handle
- Product Brand Peugeot
- SKU 25601
- Price $110.00
- Product Dimensions 5.12 x 5.12 x 5.12 in.
- Color Matte black or red
- Material Beech wood and stainless steel
- Warranty 5 years