Veal Scallopini With Lemon and Capers

1. Pat the veal dry with paper towels and sprinkle it lightly with the salt. Heat the oil in a large frying pan (preferably large enough to hold all the veal in a single layer) over medium-high heat.
2. Put as much of the veal as fits in a single layer in the pan (it is important you don't crowd the pan) and cook until it has started to brown and releases from the surface of the pan, about 2 minutes. Turn the cutlets and cook them until they're cooked through and browned on the second side, about 2 more minutes. Transfer the veal to a plate. Repeat with any remaining veal, if necessary.

1. Return the frying pan to the heat. Add the capers to the pan and let them sizzle for about 30 seconds. Add the white wine and use a spatula to help scrape up any brown bits on the bottom of the pan. Whisk together and cook until the wine is reduced by at least half, about 2 minutes.
2. Add the lemon juice and stir to combine. Swirl in the pieces of butter, whisking if you like, to make a sauce. Taste and add salt if needed.
3. Return all of the veal to the pan to coat it in the sauce. Divide the arugula between 4 plates. Drizzle a bit of the sauce over each serving of arugula before placing the veal on top of the salad. Drizzle any remaining sauce evenly over the veal. Serve immediately.

Today's Veal

If you don't eat veal for animal welfare reasons, know that there is an alternative kind of veal on the market. The difference is that the veal comes from the calves culled from the herd, not calves raised virtually motionless in pens.  You may find it labeled as "red veal," or with the Italian word "vitello." The meat isn't milky white but instead is a pale red color.